So it turns out I’m an international jackass.
Which is comforting, because at times I thought it was only in Canada. Halloween helped prove me wrong, though: in a last-minute desperate attempt at pulling together a costume without spending money, I dressed as a ‘70s version of Boris Becker (with matching six-inch white shorts and an electric fly swatter as a racket).
… which is a jackass move in Canada, but at least people will laugh it off. In mostly Muslim Zanzibar, the joke was lost on people, who thought I was gay or just a total loser. Kiswahili saved absolutely nothing. It was a night awkwardly spent sitting down as much as possible, and drinking as much as possible to forget the awkwardness of the situation (which didn’t work). Also didn’t help that Halloween costumes were a bit scarce – of 200 people at the bar, I’d say a dozen had costumes – meaning most people just assumed that guy with the tiny white shorts was carrying around an electric fly swatter in case the mosquitoes started to creep near my upper thighs.
The blessing in disguise is that three German tourists happened to be partying at the same bar, and absolutely loved my tribute to their tennis hero. In between death glances and me covering my junk, these proud gentlemen were always there to cheer me on.
Other than Halloween in Zanzibar, it was a fairly standard week: plenty of work, plenty of learning Kiswahili, and no Internet. As such, I’ve decided to delve into the basics of food here in Zanzibar. As far as mannerisms, men usually eat before women, and most everything is eaten with your hands – occasionally a pain since Muslim cultures designates that you only use your right hand to eat (although you are allowed to use both for tearing apart tougher stuff like chicken).
The food here is wonderful, albeit interestingly different. For starters, you can get plenty of classic food for very cheap: fresh fruits and veggies, bread, eggs, tea, fish and meat. For a premium price, you can get an even wider variety: cereal, chocolate bars, cheese, peanut butter, and even Pringles. Unfortunately, where a loaf of bread costs 30 cents and a small box of cereal costs $6, it’s best to stick to the basics.
Luckily, the basic afford a nice variety of tastes not readily available at home. One simple delight is a fresh dafu, or young coconut, whereby you lop the top off and drink the coconut juice (which hasn’t yet turned into milk). After you finish, the salesman will gut the insides for you for a slimier (but heartier) snack to finish it off. The whole thing costs about 30 cents, and it’s usually a pretty fun social setting right after work.
Another cheap local snack is muhogo, or cassava. Vendors will barbeque these large roots and sell them for between 10-20 cents for what essentially tastes like a baked potato, loaded with spicy salts. It’s a killer snack and locals lose their minds if they see you eating it.
Cashews are supposed to be cheap, but it seems as though they’re only sold to tourists so the prices are quite high. Instead, you can pay five cents for a little bag of fresh peanuts almost anywhere you go. You can recognize the salesmen because they all rhythmically jangle a handful of small coins to attract your attention, then lift a tray full of peanut packs for your convenience.
The list of quick, cheap treats goes on: sliced pineapple, watermelon and jackfruit; pre-bagged popcorn; dates; and incredible sugar cane juice (vendors use these giant steel machines to help extract fresh sugar cane juice, which they strain with ice and serve).
For meals, street food is a beauty. The cheap local favourite is rojo, which is a stew or soup of sorts that literally translates to “gravy” – rather appropriate, since I’m pretty sure it’s the reheated remains of the grease they used to cook their meat skewers. Whatever it is, it’s delicious, and you mix it potatoes, meat, hard-boiled eggs and even salad for about $1 per serving.
A personal favourite, available almost everywhere, is called chipsi mayai. Essentially, it’s a french fry omelette. The chef tosses a serving of pre-cooked fries into a pan, then adds two eggs and cooks it – optionally with pieces of beef or chicken, and always topped with ketchup, spices and salad. A heart attack sandwich, but just so damn good.
Meat is a riskier venture, since cooking it yourself involves selecting your own cuts of meat from the butcher (which usually consists of a guy in a window with a full cow hanging from the ceiling, ready to slice) and there are plenty of fatty pieces in the meat you need to work around. Alternatively, you can buy chicken, but unless you want to pay the premium price for pre-cooked skewers, you’re gonna have to kill and skin that sucker yourself. I’ve convinced myself I’ll do it eventually, but I’m definitely procrastinating.
The other day, my local street food chefs demanded that I roll through with a camera, so we had a pretty wild photo shoot. I’ll post the pictures on Facebook when I get some decent Internet – your guess is as good as mine.
All told, the food is unreal, and if you’re smart you can feed yourself for a week for the cost of one meal at a tourist restaurant. Recently, I started buying potatoes, peppers, carrots, onions and tomatoes in bulk to throw together some mean stirfry, which is entirely easier on the budget – and healthier than eating rojo and chipsi mayai six days a week. It was getting to the point that a concerned group of local fish salesmen were sitting me down and telling me to cut down, since my eating habits would turn me into a buana mvivu (“lazy gentleman”).
What I wouldn’t give for a bag of Sour Patch Kids right now…